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Wall Aquariums and Wall-mounted Aquariums

A couple of innovations in aquariums might be something you wish to consider if you are thinking about getting an aquarium. Wall aquariums are those that are built into a wall and viewed from one or both sides of the wall. Wall-mounted aquariums are hung on the wall like a picture, and do not require aquarium stands. These unique aquariums can be very striking in a room, but are not without their challenges too.

Wall Aquarium
A true wall aquarium is an aquarium that can be variable in length and height, and is the same thickness, or very close to it, as the wall it is in. In most modern construction, interior residential walls are 4.5 inches thick, being framed with 3.5 inch 2 x 4 studs and covered on both sides with ½ inch drywall. You can install a wall aquarium in an existing wall, but it does take some carpentry skills to cut the wall opening, reframe the opening to hold the aquarium, and trim the aquarium on both sides to finish the look. You will also likely want to wire an electrical outlet into the wall opening so you can plug in lights, pumps, and aerators for the aquarium.

A wall aquarium, showing it being mounted directly in the wall.

Access to the aquarium is usually done by lifting the hinged top trim board so you can feed and maintain the tank. However, there is not a lot of room above the tank in which to work.

One problem with both wall aquariums and wall-mounted aquariums is they are thin and have a small surface area of water compared to the volume. This means that the water cannot naturally replenish its oxygen supply easily, and so aerators are highly recommended for the fish.

If you choose to install a wall aquarium, find out if the wall you wish to mount the aquarium in is load-bearing. A load-bearing wall is part of the structural integrity of the building and helps hold up the roof. If you cut into a load-bearing wall and do not replace enough strength back into the wall with framing, you could have a very serious problem, like you roof caving in. If you are at all uncertain about what you are doing it is best to contact a professional.

If you are building a new home or addition it might be best to frame the wall from the start to hold the aquarium. This could save you a lot of hassle later on, but of course you have to plan ahead.

Wall-mounted Aquarium
A wall-mounted aquarium is far less permanent than one framed into the wall itself. This type of aquarium is hung on the wall, like a picture or other piece of art. In fact, many are designed to be living art.

The kits that come with wall-mounted aquariums show you how to mount them, and proper mounting is critical. The tanks are heavy, so the mounting needs to be into wall studs in order to support the weight without falling down. You should know how to locate wall studs before attempting to mount the aquarium.

View of a wall-mounted aquarium showing the frame around the front, the background image giving it a detailed look, and the control panel on the side.

Stud placement within the wall may not be optimal for your desired placement of the tank, and this is a limitation of a wall-mounted aquarium. Perhaps you should make sure you can mount it where you wish before making the investment, because these aquariums are more expensive than normal aquariums. Also, the mounting brackets that come with the aquariums are designed for studs that are 16 inches on center, which is the most common framing standard in the United States. However, if your home is older, or the wall you wish to mount on for some reason does not have 16 inch on center studs, you may be out of luck.

You will need an electrical supply nearby for this type of tank too. A really clean-looking installation would have the cords hidden in the wall, but most commonly you will need to run the cord down the wall under the tank to the power outlet. It is a good idea to have the cord come down to the floor then loop back up to the power outlet in a “drip loop.” If water should run down the cord it will drip off at the floor and not run down the cord into the power socket—a recipe for a fire.

Room featuring a wall-mounted aquarium.

You will likely want to hide the power cord or disguise it somehow too. You might paint it the same color as the wall, install a cord channel of some sort, or artfully place decorations under the tank to hide the cord. A word of caution, the cord that comes with the tank kit may not be very long, and you may need to replace it or extend it. It is best to let someone who knows about wiring do this work.

Another note about placement, you really should have a minimum of 18 inches free space above the top of the wall-mounted aquarium so you have room to reach into the tank for cleaning.

Wall-mounted aquariums are all-in-one packages with lights, heaters, filters, pumps, aquarium backgrounds, gravel, and aerators already installed and controlled by an on-board computer. As such they remove the guess work from the set up. Also, they are supposed to be low maintenance, but they still require some regular attention. Some people have had issues with finding replacement parts, even for the light bulbs, for example, which might be a real consideration. It might be nice to take it out and plug it in, but something will break, and if you cannot replace the light bulb easily, your wall-mounted piece of art could become an expensive wall-mounted piece of junk.

With both wall aquariums and wall-mounted aquariums there are limitations as to the kinds of fish you can keep. As stated, the tanks are very thin, 4-6 inches. This means that you cannot keep fish that are going to get very large or they will not be able to turn around.

And all the basic information about setting up the tank, balancing the nitrogen cycle, and giving it a good breaking in period, and so on still apply to these tanks. You can find detailed information about setting up an aquarium in other posts.

One of these types of aquariums might be right for you. A wall-mounted kit can give you a very attractive tank without a lot of fuss, but you will pay for it up front as they are more expensive. In an office or home setting, it could be very elegant and a definite conversation piece.

A true wall aquarium likewise would be a great conversation piece, but commits you to significant modification of your home. It might well be worth it, but go into either of these options knowing the pros and cons.

Other aquarium-related posts:
Essential advice for setting up a home aquarium
Aquarium stands, options and considerations
Aquarium hoods

Essential advice for starting a home aquarium

My granddaughter came to me yesterday and asked me to get her an aquarium. Before I could make such a promise I wanted to investigate what all was involved in setting up a fish tank.

As part of my investigation I decide that I need to review my knowledge and see what new advances the “experts” could teach me about the care of fish. I took my clip board and set out.

One of my first observations was the change in the sources of tropical fish. Years ago when I was keeping tropical fish there were many places to acquire small pets and fish. There was a time when many variety and dry goods stores, also known as five and dimes, had fish. The small stores have been taken over by today’s larger mini-marts, many of which do not have the personnel to care for live animals.

Today, fish can only be obtained from dedicated pet and pet supply stores. Some of these stores have general pet supplies, and a few specialize in fish and aquaria.

I visited three shops in my local area to get a feel for how knowledgeable the employees are. Two of the stores were general pet supply stores and one emphasized the aquarium. In all the shops the employees were eager to assist me, but of course the employee at the specialty store was much more helpful. The specialty shop not only knew about the fish and the equipment that I would need, she was eager to teach me how to set up a tank so that I would become a successful aquarist. Included in her advice was information about the various fish and how to pick fish that would result in a balanced community tank.

Basic items for a home aquarium:

Aquarium
Aquarium Stand
Hood/Light
Filter System
Filter Media
Aquarium Gravel
Heater
Thermometer
Fish Food
Supplemental Food
Bio-Boost
Gravel Cleaner
Books
Salts and water conditioner

Before any fish are purchased there should be some thought as to where the fish tank will be placed. The location of the tank will influence the size of tank to buy. Fish tanks can be purchased in 2.5 gallons to 150 gallons and larger. Even larger tanks can be special ordered or full wall aquaria can be installed but large fish tanks are probably not for beginners.

One important fact to consider when setting up an aquarium is the weight of a tank once it is set up. The water, aquarium gravel, aquarium hood, a filtration system, and all the cords necessary to operate the accessories could add up to a lot of weight. A five gallon tank set up can have a total weight of 45 lbs or more. The home aquarist most often purchases a 55 gallon tank. An estimated weight for a 55 gallon fish tank would be about 500 pounds. Five hundred pounds of glass and water will require a very sturdy stable aquarium stand.

The size of the tank will influence the number of fish you should keep. The usual rule of thumb is one fish per gallon of water. This rule can be stretched in either direction depending on the breed of fish you select, and if you have a large fish tank. The larger the adult fish, the fewer fish per gallon. One of the factors that could have an influence on the number of fish kept in one tank is how frequently the tank will be cleaned. A crowded tank will need to be cleaned and filtered more often to prevent the pH of the water from rising too rapidly.

You can also get fish tanks in shapes other than rectangular. If you want to consider an aquarium of a unique shape be aware of the pros and cons. A multi-sided slender tank can add interest in the final effect of a display and show off the fish in a different way. However, it might complicate the cleaning of the tank as well as add expense for special equipment to set it up and to maintain.

Don’t forget that an electrical outlet should be somewhere near the proposed set up site. Electrical power will be needed to power the filter, heater, and lights. The aquarium hood keeps the tank covered, which helps keep evaporation of the tank water to a minimum, and it also helps protect the fish from jumping out. Some species have a little too much energy for their own good.

Densely-planted tropical fish tank. View larger image to spot the happy fish!

Without a doubt a filtration system is essential. The filtration can be done by mechanical, chemical or biological methods, or a combination of these systems. Get as much information about each system before purchasing any system. Be sure you know what will be involved in cleaning or replacing the filter media.

Other pieces of equipment that you will need are a heater, a thermometer, and perhaps books for general information. Some additional items you might want to consider are chemicals such as aquarium salt—to help cure and prevent diseases; water conditioner—to remove chlorine from tap water; a bio-boost—to start the nitrogen cycle; and vitamins and minerals—to add to the general health of the fish.

Optional but recommended items

In for a penny, in for a pound. Now that you have gotten this far, here is another list of items to consider having:

Live Plants
Background
Rocks
Driftwood
Fish Net
Algae Scrubber
Ammonia Test Kit
Nitrite Test Kit
Nitrate Test Kit
pH Test Kit

The plants and decorations add interest and help keep fish healthy, and the testing kits are explained below.

How to set up the aquarium

Even new aquaria and equipment should be well rinsed with warm clean water before it is use. If an aquarium background (See article on aquarium backgrounds) is going to be used, it is easier to be placed on the tank before any water or decorations are added in the tank.

The tank should be placed on a level solid base away from direct sunlight. A sturdy aquarium stand is recommended to hold the weight and help prevent the possibility of a pressure crack. With the tank resting in place, add rinsed aquarium gravel. (If an under gravel filter is used, place it first.)

Start filling the tank with lukewarm water by slowly pouring the water into the tank in such a way that it slides down a side before hitting the bottom of the tank. The purpose of this is to avoid displacing the gravel, and later the aquarium ornaments and filter. When the tank is ½ to 2/3 full, decorations, plants, and possibly the filtration system can be added. The decorations, plants, driftwood, and that sort of thing, adds interest to the look of the tank, but it also provides cover for the fish to hide in. Being able to hide helps the fish be less stressed, and they will live longer.

Continuing to add water with care will eliminate the need of reaching into the tank and repositioning the placements. When the tank is within 2” of the top add aquarium salt and water conditioner. Be sure to consult the package for directions.

Finish hooking up the filtration system. Place the heater and thermometer into the aquarium. (Follow the direction given with the heater.) Continue filling the aquarium with water to 1” of the top. Turn on the filter and heater, let everything cycle for at least 24 hours. Some adjustment to the heater may be necessary to keep the water at the desired temperature for the fish you intent to add. (Tropical fish 76-78 degrees and gold fish 70-72 degrees.)

After the tank has had the proper time to cycle, it is recommended that you test the water for the desired pH level for the fish you want to keep, and make any adjustments as needed. (Some additional information about pH can be found here). It is now, finally, time to add some fish to your tank.

It is recommended, especially for the beginner, to select fish species for their ability to withstand the nitrogen cycle. Some of the recommended fishes are Barbs, Swordtails, Danios, and some Tetras. A knowledgeable pet shop clerk can assist you in making the right selection. The first fish added to the aquarium will help establish a good nitrogen cycle.

Nitrogen Cycle

Nitrogen is the most common element in the atmosphere, and it is essential to all living things. However, most living things cannot get nitrogen out of the air on their own. The organisms that can, mostly bacteria, are called nitrogen-fixing. The cycle starts in your fish tank with the ammonia stage, when the fish give off urine and solid waste into the water. The ammonia would quickly build up in the water to levels that are toxic to fish. Fortunately, we have some helpers in the bacterial world.

Certain bacteria are able to convert the rising ammonia is nitrite, also toxic. But this product is converted with the help of another bacterium into nitrate. Nitrate is in a form that can be used by aquarium plants as a nitrogen food source. So, what the aquarium-keeper must do is to establish this process in the new tank.

Fortunately, the bacteria you need to grow in your tank are everywhere (in the air, water, etc.), but they need time to grow to suitable population levels in your tank to keep the ammonia levels down. This is why it is best to start with a few hardy fish that can tolerate initial rising ammonia levels till the bacteria really kick in. Testing kits can help you determine when this cycle is set up and in balance. Also, you will likely need to change out some of the tank water from time to time as another method of reducing ammonia levels.

This full process should take about 2 or more months, so do not get the most expensive fish right away. You may have some early casualties. With the nitrogen cycle established and the starter fish thriving it is time to add more fish to the tank. The size of the tank will determine the final number of fish. With the final number in mind a mixture if live bearers, schooling fish, catfish and algae eaters can be introduced into the community.

Adding varieties of fish serves more than just adding more fish to the tank. Variety adds to the interest of a tank and each variety can contribute to the health of the tank. As an example the catfish, one for every 5 gallons of water, are bottom feeders and will help consume the food that has fallen to the bottom of the tank. This in turn helps prevent the food from rotting and fouling the waters. The algae eaters, usually one for every 10 gallons, do just as the name implies. They eat algae and helps keep the algae controlled.

A well established aquarium will naturally do a lot to keep itself healthy. It will produce the bacteria that will help keep the nitrogen cycle active. Plants take up the nitrogen and carbon dioxide and give off oxygen. The fish will do their job of eating the bottom foods and eating algae. An aquarist must do his job of providing the final assist, periodic cleaning, and maintenance. But this rewarding hobby will provide you and your family with hours of enjoyment.

Snails in an aquarium
Breeding fish in a home aquarium
More about egg laying fish
Live bearing fish in a home aquarium
Aquarium background
Crustaceans and larvae as fish food
Diverse food for aquarium fish
Aquarium gravel and water
Experiences in setting up a home aquarium
Aquarium Stands, what are the options and considerations?
Aquarium hoods
Fishing games—a sea of options

Breeding fish in a home aquarium

The usual fish tank aquarium is set up for the enjoyment of the observer. An aquarist will often buy a pair of fish, a male and a female. As with other creatures when a male and a female get together the natural impulse is to breed. A natural question might be, ”Why doesn’t the aquarium soon over flow with fish?” One of the answers to such a question is related to the breeding needs of tropical fish.

In some cases, fishes in captivity do not acclimate to aquarium conditions. Even though they may be kept alive and in good health there is “something” missing. The missing element could be one thing or a combination of things. It might be that the water pressure is not right for that breed of fish to spawn. For some fish there is a need for a lot of surface water and even a large fish tank cannot provide enough surface water. Some fish are rendered sterile under normal shipping conditions. Not all the reasons are known and most are speculation.

For the fish that do breed in a fish tank aquarium, the usual community tank does not give enough protection for many of the fry to survive. This is especially true for the egg scatterers.

Egg scatterers comprise a large portion of the commonly used tropical fish population. Included in this group are the Tetras, Pencilfish, most of the Barbs, some of the Minnows, Hatchet, and Catfish as well as many others. The process is just as the name implies. The female swims and scatters her eggs; the male follows behind her and fertilizes them. An observer sees this behavior as a chase. Other fish in the tank see this as a feeding. Even the parent fish will enjoy the roe once the spawning is completed.

A few of the fertilized eggs may make it to the bottom of the tank and find shelter in the aquarium gravel. The eggs differ in degrees of stickiness to none at all. The sticky eggs may adhere to an aquarium ornament or plant; some of the eggs may float. All of the eggs in this group are abandoned by the parent fish making them susceptible to scavengers. Even the eggs that make it to the safety of aquarium sand or gravel have only a slight chance of maturing into fry. Bottom feeders and scavenger fish will eat most of them. If an egg should be able to hatch their chances of survival are next to nothing. The fry are non-swimmers until the yolk sac is absorbed and a lack of an appropriate food source will also inhibit the small fish’s chances of survival.

More about egg-laying fish
Live-bearing fish
Aquarium gravel and water
Aquarium stands, options and considerations

Diverse food for aquarium fish

In a previous post I touched lightly on the importance of giving aquarium fish live food. Live food provides a more natural and a more balanced diet than a commercially prepared fish food. The prepared foods should only be considered as a basic diet, not the total diet.

A typical way of feeding aquarium fish is to sprinkle a quantity of dry food into the aquarium. As the food slowly drifts to the bottom the fish try to get a share. If the fish are unable to eat all of the food, it settles into the aquarium gravel. Bottom feeders and smaller fishes will eat some of the settled food but if it is allowed to stay in the tank it will rot and foul even a large fish tank. Live food not only gives the fish more of the nutriments they need, it permits the fish to feed in a more natural manor.

Below I have listed some of the more common live foods that can be used in an aquarium. My list is by no means complete. It is intended as an introduction only. You can purchase these foods, or even collect them yourself if you wish.

BLOODWORMS & GLASS WORMS – are not worms but the larval form of a fly. Both larvae make an excellent food for mature fish but should not be in a tank with small fry; the larvae are capable of catching and killing the fry.

TUBIFEX WORMS – is probably the most used worm in an aquarium as most dealers stock tubifex worms year around. They can however be found in bodies of water that is rich in organic and vegetable wastes.

MICROWORMS – is a small worm that was discovered to be easily cultivated and made an excellent food for small fish. Other worms that make good fish food include the Grindal worm, White worm and the common earthworm. It is better to not make a steady diet of any one thing. Larger worms should be fed in smaller easier to swallow pieces. To avoid a mushy mess while cutting up the worms use a quick-freeze method. Quickly freeze the worms. When you want to do a feeding, take out the amount of worms needed and cut them with a razor to the desired size.

OTHER – The common housefly is also an excellent food for the fish tank Aquarium. Be aware that only the swatted flies are acceptable as fish food. Flies that have been killed with insecticides are poisonous to the fish that eats them.

Essential advice for starting a home aquarium
Aquarium gravel and water
Aquarium backgrounds explored
Aquarium stands, options and considerations

Aquarium gravel and water

It wasn’t too many years ago that the home aquarist paid very little attention to the water in an aquarium. Perhaps some of that was due to the fact that most of the water used was collected from ponds or rainwater catch. Now most of us get our water from our water taps. The water has been processed to insure that it is safe for us to drink. Our safe drinking water is not necessarily the best water for fish. Chlorination is usually part of the water cleaning process. That and other chemicals added to our tap water can be stressful and even fatal to some fish.

Fish cannot survive in waters that are too acid or too alkaline. The acidity is measured on a scale that is known as the pH scale, shorthand for potentiometric hydrogen ion concentration. A pH scale starts with the strongest acids measuring pH 1, and ending with the strongest alkali as low as pH 14. In the wild, waters that harbor fish can a range from an acidic pH of 4 to a basic pH of 9. Most home aquaria should be kept near a neutral pH of 7 unless the specific species you have require something else.

There are ways to measure the pH of the water in an aquarium. The easiest is probably the litmus paper strip. To obtain a reading, dip the paper strip into the water and compare the color of the paper with a chart. This is a fast and easy method but can be inaccurate. The chemically treated paper can be affected by age and storage conditions.

A better and more accurate way to test the water is to obtain a kit that provides a vial and indicator chemicals. Water is collected in the vial and then the chemicals are added. The water changes color to indicate the pH.

Besides the source of the water there are other factors that can affect the pH and the degree of hardness of the water (DH). The aquarium ornaments we add to our tanks can slowly leach out calcium and magnesium salts. The ornaments include aquarium gravel, stones, or metals that are place in the water.

Prevention and cure of a pH or DH problem starts with using only aged water. That is water that has been collected and allowed to sit in a loosely covered pail for a day or two before adding it to the aquarium. Another preventative step is to buy aquarium gravel approved for aquarium use by being pH and DH tested. Rocks and stones should be of a non-metallic nature and free of limestone.

Before placing anything in an aquarium it should be washed and allowed to soak in clear water for a few days. The water should be tested before and after the soaking. If the pH or DH changes discard the object or try treating it with a mild solution of Hydrochloric acid then rinse thoroughly. Try the soaking and testing again. Your fish will thank you.

Essential advice for starting a home aquarium
Aquarium stands, options and considerations
Aquarium backgrounds

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